Corrective corset is worn for scoliosis. Since the curvature of the spine is different, in the store it is not always possible to find a corset that matches the characteristics of your particular figure. But for those who know how to sew at least a little, it will not be difficult to make such a corset with their own hands.
- - the main pattern of the dress;
- - graph paper;
- - pencil;
- - ruler;
- - scissors;
- - dense natural fabric;
- - material for a corrective pad;
- - lightweight fabric for the upper;
- - cord;
- - sewing accessories.
Decide which corset is right for you. Posture correctors are divided into four main types: modeling, orthopedic, supportive or replacement. The modeling type is suitable for those with lateral curvature of the spine. In this case, a rigid insert is made on the side of the bend, usually made of plastic. An orthopedic corset strengthens the lower or upper part of the spine, depending on the nature of the curvature. If you need to correct the lower part of the spine, you need a lumbar corset, for the upper part - something like a bodice with a reinforced back part. If the back is round or, conversely, completely flat, a support corset is needed. There is also a replacement corset, which is worn after operations on the spine or abdominal cavity. It allows you to temporarily relieve unnecessary stress on the muscles.
Choose a corset style. It is not worn under clothes, but instead of blouses and vests, so it should be a complete piece of your wardrobe, matching the style of the rest of your clothes. The ideal option is a corset in a folk style fashionable at all times. But it can be a top, and a vest, and a shirt-blouse.
It is very important to choose the right fabric. It should be a fairly dense natural material that, among other things, does not gather in folds and keeps its shape well. Mixed materials with a small amount of artificial fibers can also be used.
If you have a basic dress pattern, you only need to take one measurement - measure the distance from the waistline to the armpit. The rest of the measurements have already been taken into account when making the pattern.
Model a basic pattern. Trace it on a piece of graph paper up to the thigh line and cut out. Transfer the side groove to the shoulder groove. This is how it is done. Cut the shoulder undercut from its end point to the intersection with the side, slide the pieces of the shelf so that the side seam is straight, and seal the side cut with tape or a strip of paper. The backrest pattern does not need to be modeled.
Work with the shelf template. Draw the main lines (since you traced the old pattern, these lines are not on the template). Divide the waistline into 4 equal parts. Draw a perpendicular across the middle mark until it intersects with the lines of the hips and chest. Model the undercuts as shown in the figure.
Divide the waistline of the back into 3 parts. From the intersection of the chest line with the armhole, set aside 11.5 cm, extending the chest line. Calculate the size of the undercuts based on your own measurements. To do this, divide both girths by 4. To the result obtained for the chest girth, add 11, 5. Subtract the waist girth divided by 4. From the resulting number, divide the difference in half - this will be the maximum size of the undercut. Divide it in half again and set aside the results obtained to the left and right of the marks separating the central and lateral parts of the back. The lower ends of the undercuts are on the hip line. To define the top ends of the undercuts, divide the distance between the bust and waist lines by 8. Set the segments down from the waist line. Draw the undercuts. Tighten the back by 1 to 2 cm and mark the lacing area.
Determine the shape of the upper and lower corset cuts. They can be different - straight, in the form of arcs, curly. Cut out a pattern. All manipulations must be carried out directly on the pattern. When cutting, circle the top cut of the corset along the drawn line, and the top part of the shelf along the chest line so that the parts overlap.
Open the corset on cheap fabric (you can take, for example, an old sheet), sweep them and try on. Adjust the joints and shape of the parts with pins. Pull out the basting, leave the pins in place.
Trace the details of the corset on thick fabric. If you need a reinforcing pad, make the corset or one of its sidewalls two-layer. Stitch the grooves. Process the bottom (you can simply hem it by hand or sew it on a typewriter with a decorative stitch). Model the top. It can be sewn from something light and flowing, like knitwear. This part can look like the top of a Greek dress, so you can sew right on yourself.
Cut a piece of jersey. The length of the workpiece should be equal to the distance from the chest line to the middle of the shoulder blades, and the piece itself should be rectangular. Fold the cut in half. Mark the location for the neckline and cut along the fold. You also need to cut the back. Decorate its edges with a clasp with loops from a braid or a roll made of the same fabric. Try on, mark the folds on the shoulders and sweep them. Baste the top to the corset cut and stitch. Cut off excess allowances. Finish the armholes, if the edges are cut, and the neckline. In the back of the corset, punch holes for the eyelets and insert the cord.